2023 Make Nine recap

It's a wrap! Make Nine 2023 finished up in early November with the last UFO prompt fulfilled.

Make Nine 2023 completed tracker.

Make Nine 2023 Finishes

In order of completion, these are my Make Nine finishes for 2023:

• New to Me in ’23 came the first month of the year with the January Junk Journal Challenge. (January)
• Stash Buster was a yarn stash buster this year. The Inclinations Shawl was completed inFebruary and now that the weather is cold again, it gets much use. (February)
• Make it Again was a long sleeve Bristol top with Art Gallery knits. (March)
• Wild Card 1 was another Bristol Top with long sleeves in green knit fabrics for St. Patrick’s Day. (March)
• Mend/Repurpose a new binding was put on a well-used, well-loved, vintage quilt. Now it’s a time-span quilt and a collaboration with Anonymous. (May)
• Online Challenge was a new prompt for 2023. I participated in the World Watercolor Challenge. (July)
• Wild Card 2 was for the kitties at the Cat Clinic. They received 12 new scrappy kitty quilts this summer. (July)
• Fast and Fun were three cuddle quilts for my guild’s community service project. (August)
• UFO was a productive prompt. I had fabrics set aside for a pair of pants and a jacket. The pattern pieces for the Valencia pants had been cut out for a while. I completed both in time for a business conference and have worn both pieces a lot since. It was a beneficial investment of time to get these pieces finished. (November)

This past year, the Make Nine challenge has been beneficial to my skill development, my art practice, my wardrobe, and to the charities I am happy to support.

I’m planning to participate in Make Nine again in the new year. Who’s with me?

A Winter of Care and Repair Challenge

The topics of mending (visible and invisible), maintaining and caring for our wardrobes, sustainability, and eliminating waste from fast fashion are very prevalent these days. Jeanna Wigger, @thepeoplesmending, has proposed a winter "Call to Action" to promote the idea of repairing and caring for clothes, accessories, and other items with the "Winter of Care and Repair" project. Care to give it a go?

Winter Care and Repair Challenge 2023
#winterofcareandrepair2023

How to participate in Winter Care and Repair 2023

Jeanna suggests customizing the project to your individual needs, skill level, and degree of participation. Participants can use this project as a framework for a personal Mending To-Do list. The project, or Challenge, also serves as a a good motivator as others will be participating—and there is strength (encouragement) in numbers.

I'm going to participate with a focus on textiles:

• mending and repairs, 
• upcycling/repurposing, 
• organizing my fabric stash, and 
• finding ways to minimize scraps. 

I've read other great Challenge pledges that include maintaining or repairing things beside textiles and garments, such as:

• tending a garden and prepping it for the next season's plantings,
• de-cluttering a room/house/garage,
• repurposeing or repairing (rather than disposing of) other household items,
• strengthening habits to promote personal health and mental well-being.
  
  

The timeframe: Solstice to Equinox

The Winter Care and Repair project goes from the Winter Solstice to the Spring Equinox—December 21, 2023 to March 19, 2024. 

Mend/Repurpose prompt from Make Nine 2023

I'll incorporate the Winter of Care and Repair pledge into my 2024 Create Daily practice. In my past three Make Nine Challenges in 2021, 2022, and 2023, I've included prompts related to this topic so I feel I'm cognisant of this practice. (See my previous Make Nine prompt pages in this blog post.)

Do you have a mending pile? 

This is is the perfect project to whittle down that mending pile! I have a few items in need of stitching and mending and there are likely others that will pop up between now and the Spring Equinox. I like that this project is also a good reminder that "loved clothes last" and a quick mend will keep them in circulation much longer. 

A stitch in time saves nine,
               ... and keeps textiles out of landfills and the waste stream.

Winter Solstice: a good time for making pillowcases

Yesterday, December 21, was the Winter Solstice. It's the day of the year with the shortest amount of daylight and the longest night. Ancient astronomers refer to it as the day "the sun stood still" as it's when the sun reaches its highest or lowest point in the sky (depending in which hemisphere you live).

Set of pillowcases.

After getting all the holiday cards mailed out, I retreated to the sewing machine for those extra long, winter solstice evening hours. I got two sets of pillowcases finished for Christmas gifts.

A productive Winter Solstice for me!

Jackets need pockets! Use the selvedge for a clever detail

Need pockets? You bet! Pants, jackets, skirts, shorts... they all need pockets. If these wardrobe pieces don't have them, they get added.

Make Nine cotton/linen jacket with a patch pocket

This cotton/linen jacket is one of my Make Nine 2023 projects. It was finished just in the nick-o'-time to wear at a business conference at the end of October, but I didn't have time to add a pocket.

Incorporate an interesting selvedge on your pocket

Fabric selvedges these days are decorative as well as functional and informative. Many printed fabrics—especially in the quilting industry—have information such as the fabric collection and designer's names printed on the selvedge in addition to the classic "color dot" registration marks. The typefaces used often reflect the theme or aesthetic of the printed design, as well.

Closeup of information on the selvedge.

For this patch pocket, I used an offcut piece of the fabric from the jacket. It was serendipitous that this scrap had a selvedge and the printing—the fabric line and designer name—on it. 

Trimming the scrap into a long rectangle, I folded it nearly in half, sewed the sides, turned it to the right side, and flipped the selvedge edge over at the top of the pocket. The hand embroidery secured the flap to the body of the pocket and the perle cotton thread color echoed the colors of the jacket lining. 

A few weeks ago, the pocket came on the road to West Virginia with me as my "hand work" project. It's now [hand] sewn on the jacket's inside.

Patch pocket attached by hand to the inside of the jacket.

Even though the pocket can't be seen on the outside, it has fun details!

Carve December 2023 is underway

Last year, the Carve December 2022 Challenge was a good activity for me to practice carving rubber stamps. The Carve December 2023 Challenge is underway and I'm participating again this year to brush up on my carving skills and expand my stamp collection.

Carve December 2023 stamps for the first 9 days.
#carvedecemer2023

Julie Fei-Fen Balzer at Balzer Designs, the host of Carve December, offers a list of daily prompts should you be at a loss for inspiration. You can use some, all, or none of the prompts and you can post daily or as you can. I'll do my best—as time, work schedule and life permits.

Carve December prompts for 2023.

Nine days into the Challenge, here are a few of my favorite prints so far.

Bird print.

Inspired by holiday botanicals, I carved these...

Poinsettia print.

Paperwhite print with watercolor.

This stamp had a real-life model for drawing the initial design. I think it turned out quite well.

Christmas cactus print.

Christmas cactus in bloom.

More stamps are in sight this month.

Loopy Loom weaving with Bombas socks

I’ve been enjoying doing upcycled and scrap busting projects lately. They’re stress free… mindful… textural… and it keeps textile items out of the trash and landfill.

Woven rug mugs from upcycled socks.

As long-lasting and hard-wearing our Bombas socks are, eventually the heels develop thin areas or holes. This weekend, I pulled out the Loopy Loom and a bag of un-mendable socks and started to weave with sock loops. A pair of light colored tie-dyed socks were incorporated with some of the darker colors. 

Weaving with light and dark color values on the Loopy Loom.

Because these socks have areas where the knitting has tighter elasticity, the weavings don’t come off the loom completely square. However, I think the organic shapes are interesting and fun (and a bit funny-looking). But they are thick and dense and make great hot pads and mug rugs. This batch is slightly more decorative because of the color combinations.

Three woven mug rugs off the loom.

So, cheers to the upcoming season of colder days, hot chocolate, hot tea with honey, and using a new set of upcycled mug rugs!

Gobble up a good book and slow stitching on Thanksgiving

Before you succumb to the over-abundance of turkey and fixin’s and the pecan pie sugar comma, find time on this Thanksgiving Day to settle into a comfy chair with a good book, or slow stitching… or a good book about slow stitching.

Sign outside the Foley Book Exchange.

The Foley Book Exchange

When my friends Leanna and Audrey had their quilt shop in L.A (lower Alabama)—Foley, Alabama to be exact—I had sales calls with them a couple of times a year. During one of my trips, I discovered the Foley Book Exchange. Since then, when I travel to the Alabama coast, I try to schedule a little bit of time, if at all possible, to peruse the vintage and out-of-print treasures on their shelves… or piled on the chair, or in the latest stacks of books on the floor that are awaiting the shelving process. If I limited time, I beeline to the Art/Hobby/Craft section (I know exactly where it’s located). Local (especially independent) book stores—like quilt shops—are on the top of my “Must-Visit” list when traveling!

Earlier this month, I was again in Foley, and stopped at the Book Exchange. Much to my surprise and delight, this classic title, by the revolutionary knitter extraordinaire, Elizabeth Zimmerman, called Knitting Without Tears, was there for the taking! Needless to say, Knitting Without Tears (along with a few other books) came home with me. 

Knitting Without Tears, by Elizabeth Zimmerman.

This copy of Knitting Without Tears is a 1971 edition and in very good condition. The original price, as printed on the inside cover flap, was $7.95. Although the book didn’t have a colophon (being a typography aficionado, I looked), it was printed in the USA.

Knitting Without Tears, Copyright 1971, $7.95 original price.

I started reading my new acquisition—which is Elizabeth’s first book—last night. The text is conversational in nature, authoritative and heart-felt, and has plenty of good points and examples that back up what she is talking about. This hardbound edition has the wide outside page margins, a functional serif typeface, ample leading, uses true small caps, and is printed on a durable paper stock.

Heed these Recommendations from a Revered Expert

The first chapter (there is no Preface or Foreword in this book) is called “The Opinionated Knitter.” The heading pulls you right in and gives an idea of how the author feels about herself as a knitter and about the art and craft of knitting itself. I’d like to share a few of her recommendations that are relevant today as they were in the 1970s. Her words, though directed toward a knitter, can readily apply to a quilter as well. Here they are:

Where to buy—go to the independent specialty shops

“… start off by going to the best specialty yarn shop or good department store that you can find. It is not wise to shop around for cheap wool [her yarn fiber preference] unless you are very experienced, or are willing to risk spending hours of work on an object that will shrink, fade or run. A well-made sweater, knitted with good will and good wool, is beyond price; why try to save a dollar on the material?”

How much to buy—any extra is insurance or for future projects

“When wondering how much wool to buy, ask the saleslady. She knows by experience. If she doesn’t know and isn’t interested, go to another store.” “Consult the nice expert in the wool shop, and if she doesn’t suggest taking an extra skein as insurance against running short, take one anyway. …think of what a disaster it would be to run short, and to fail to match the dye lot. Anyway, extra skeins are always useful for socks, caps, mittens, color patterns, or stripes.” 

The corollary for quilters or sewers is to also buy a little extra. If it’s a fabric you love but don’t have a plan for it, the rule of thumb is "3 yards will be enough for borders" on a throw quilt or average size bed quilt. For garments, you may need to adjust the width of a hem, lengthen sleeves or pant legs. And, if you prewash (I always do this when sewing garments), you want to accommodate for any shrinkage.

Most fabric collections in the quilting market are “one and done.” So if you don’t get what you need for your project at the time of purchase, there is a good possibility the fabric will not be available after a few months… and a definite probability that your local quilt shop will not be able to purchase an additional bolt for you.

Hand knitting with leftover yarns.

Slow stitching maximizes your budget

Elizabeth says, “If you prefer to economize and love to knit, make your sweaters with very fine wool and many stitches.” “Fine knitting gives you many more hours of your favorite hobby before you have to sally forth and make another capital investment.”

For quilters and stitchers: it doesn’t take a lot of materials and you won’t break the bank to get hours of stitching pleasure from handwork or slow stitching. 

Hand embroidery on printed fabric panel.

Slow stitching “soothes the troubled spirit”

I’ll conclude with another quote from Elizabeth Zimmerman’s book: “… properly practiced, knitting soothes the troubled spirit, and it doesn’t hurt the untroubled spirit either.”

Enjoy slow stitching or a good book this Thanksgiving.

Daylight Saving Time kitty quilts for a friend

When the clocks were turned back an hour for Daylight Saving Time, I took advantage of the “extra hour” for sewing and patchwork. Using improv piecing and a pile of flannel scraps I turned the bonus hour in the studio into a snuggly kitty quilt top for my friend and business associate, Concetta.

Improvisationally pieced flannel kitty quilt.

Concetta (Connie) not only has inside cats as pets, she also feeds and shelters several outside cats. She is a profound animal lover! 

Last weekend, this Daylight Saving quilt top and two other kitty quilt tops were free-motion quilted and the bindings attached.

Free-motion quilting on small flannel quilt.

All these scrappy quilts were improvisationally pieced with various flannel scraps and an upcycled flannel shirt.

Three new scrappy flannel kitty quilts. Sizes: 31.5” x 24”, 31.5” x 24”, 28” x 23”

Each quilt has a flannel backing as well—very soft and warm for the winter weather.

Flannel backings on three new kitty quilts.

Scrappy quilts and scrappy dish cloths

This morning, I packed up the quilts—along with a couple of hand knit dish cloths—and put the box in the mail to Connie. 

Kitty quilts and dish cloths ready for shipping.

The hand knit dish cloths are also scrappy—made with balls and bits of leftover cotton yarns. The stitch pattern is a slip stitch pattern that offers a pretty texture especially with the yarn color changes. Dish cloths are one of my meditative, handwork projects that I take on the road with me on sales trips. We use them in our kitchen all the time. They are useful and colorful.

A care package for Connie and her cats is on its way.

Earth friendly 100% organic cotton thread hits the quilting and sewing market

There’s a new thread in the market! It’s a 100% organic long staple Pima cotton thread for sewing and quilting by Scanfil. This thread has all the best qualities you want in a sewing and quilting thread and it’s kinder to the earth, as well. 

Scanfil 100% organic cotton threads at the 2023 Quilt Market.

What’s “organic” thread?

I was introduced to this organic thread product by one of my fabric rep associates, Andy Jacobs. Scanfil was looking for new sales representatives in the US so he put me—and a few other sales reps—in contact with the company. Thread is a good complement to the quilting fabrics I rep, and I trusted Andy's recommendation. 

Six- and three-spool thread sets from Scanfil Organics.

The manufacturing and thread specs, and the benefits of this organic cotton thread are:

• extra long staple organic Pima cotton thread. Pima cotton is responsibly grown in the USA.
• GOTS [Global Organic Textile Standard] certified to ensure ethical and sustainable production; free of pesticides and toxic chemicals.
• OEKO-TEX certified—tested for substances that could be harmful to human health.
• Forbitex, the parent company of Scanfil, is a second-generation family-owned business in the Netherlands. The company's threads are all manufactured in Europe.
• a unique spinning process provides strength to the thread.
• dyed and coated with natural solutions that are free of impurities.
• mercerized for smoothness, more receptive to colorants, and yields virtually no lint.
• precision wound with no knots on biodegradable wooden spool cores (no plastic).
• thread will not shrink or bleed with washing.
• packaged in recyclable, biodegradable kraft paper products (no plastics are used).

A bamboo thread stand comes with the 6-spool thread sets.

• currently available in 2-ply 50 wt and 2-ply 30 wt solid colors.
• individual spools, cones, and curated thread sets in both weights are available.
• a bamboo thread stand is included with each 6-color thread set.
• the smoothness of this thread will feel better to the skin. Those with allergies or chemical sensitivities may find relief from using certified organic thread or items sewn with it.

The packaging of the six spool thread set.

Let’s “Kick the tires”

Before discussing this product with my client base, I wanted experience using it. I put the thread through the paces—piecing patchwork, free-motion machine quilting, and hand stitching. My new zipper tote is proof of the testing.

Zipped tote bag pieced and quilted with Scanfil 100% organic cotton threads.

Piecing and patchwork

I loaded the 50/2 wt. thread in both the top and the bobbin for testing patchwork construction and piecing. The blocks shown below are pieced improvisationally. 

Findings:

• bobbins were easy to wind and I was able to get a lot of yardage on the bobbin using the 2-ply 50 wt. 
• There were no issues threading the machine or with machine piecing. I used the 50/2 wt for piecing with an 80/12 universal needle. 
• after piecing the outside of the tote, the bobbin area was fairly lint free.

Patchwork blocks and bag construction. Layers were hand basted for doing hand stitching.

Hand stitching/Hand quilting

After patchwork and construction of the bag's outside, the quilt layers (patchwork top, a 100% cotton quilt batting, and a quilting cotton for the bag lining) were hand basted. I used several colors of the 30 wt. threads to do a bit of hand stitching/quilting. 

Findings:

• The 30/2 wt gives more prominence to the stitches.
• The thread glided easily through a hand sewing needle and through the fabrics. The majority of the fabrics are Painter's Palette solids from Paintbrush Studio.

Hand stitching using 30/2 wt organic thead.

Machine quilting

The 50/2 wt organic cotton was used in the top and bobbin for the background fillers. The 30/2 wt was used in the top for the decorative quilting details on the block motifs. The machine needle used was a 11/75 quilting needle.

Free-motion quilting starting at the bag bottom.

Findings:

• For the free-motion quilting (on a domestic machine), I used the 50/2 wt. for the background fills—spirals and bubbles.
• Thread tension was easy to balance. No thread breakage or shedding through the needle occurred. I used nearly two bobbins to quilt this piece.
• Back-tracking had minimal build-up using the 50/2 wt thread.
• Minimal lint in the bobbin area of my machine after 3 - 4 hours of machine quilting.

The 30/2 wt thread was matched to the patchwork motifs. The 50/2 wt thread was used for the free-motion quilting.

Decorative machine stitching

I put a green 30/2 wt thread in the top thread and used a decorative 3-step zigzag stitch on the bag handles. 50/2 wt was used in the bobbin. 

Findings:

• No issues or skipped stitches using the 80/12 universal sewing machine needle.
• Although I used the built-in decorative stitch on just the bag's handles, I feel confident this thread would do a beautiful job with other decorative machine stitches. As with any thread, I do a sample swatch to determine what stitches, stitch width and length, and thread weight give the desired effect.

A decorative stitch was used on the bag handle with the 30/2 wt thread.

Machine friendly threads

Serged skirt using Scanfil organic cotton thread.
Fabrics from The Ghastlies collection from Alexander Henry.
Photo credit: S. Zimmerman

The Scanfil organic thread line is rated to perform well in other sewing machines such as sergers and longarm quilting machines. 

One of the new Scanfil reps used the cones on her serger to sew a gored skirt. She informed us that the thread worked like a champ. She noted her well-loved and well-used serger had “very little lint in the mechanism… demonstrably less than [another well-known brand of thread].” I suspect the mercerization and gassing processes performed during the manufacturing of the Scanfil thread greatly contributes to its success. 

Customer testimonial

This past August, I left a sample spool of the Scanfil thread with one of my shop owners. The shop owner, in turn, gave it to one of her regular customers to run it through the paces. Determined—at first—that she would not like the thread, the customer gave it a go anyway. 

I'm happy to report that @combat_quilter was pleasantly surprised with the Scanfil thread's performance. (Thanks for keeping an open mind, Terri!)

More thread uses and techniques 

In addition to the sewing and quilting techniques discussed here, there are other uses for this organic thread: hand or machine appliqué, decorative stitching, heirloom sewing, home decor, thread painting, to name a few.

Scanfil organic thread sets and appliqué example.

Need thread? Choose organic!

The next time you reach for thread, why not go earth-friendly with organic? With Scanfil Organic, you won't be giving up any of the characteristics of a fine, reliable thread that you've come to know and trust.

Visit your local quilt shop and ask for Scanfil organic threads. Independent quilt shops and sewing centers are beginning to carry the full collection of colors as well as the thread sets. Treat yourself—and a quilting friend—to a spool (or three) of Scanfil organic thread.

Try Scanfil 100% organic Pima cotton thread on your next sewing or quilting project.

Final Make Nine 2023 project: jacket and pants

I’m counting this ensemble—a jacket and pants—as my final Make Nine project for 2023! I’ve had the pants pattern pieces cut out for quite a while, and the other fabrics were in the stash. Both were waiting for inspiration and motivation to strike… not to mention finding time to sew. 

Cotton/linen jacket, Make Nine 2023

Event deadline = Motivation

With my plans to attend the International Quilt Market, I had the motivation needed to get on with the sewing. It always feels a bit special to wear something “new” to a business event, so this was the perfect impetus for a sewing episode.

Patterns and materials

The pants pattern is a frequently used one for me—the Valencia pants [from The Sewing Workshop]. The Raggy Jacket is my go-to pattern for a jacket. I’ve made several jackets over the years with this pattern. The pattern pieces are sized and I’m familiar with the construction.

The Valencia Pants and Raggy Jacket patterns: both frequently used for my garment makes.

Pants and Jacket materials:

• the pants fabric is a yarn-dyed woven [Diamond Textiles]. The pants were already cut out, complete with tailor tacks! 
• the outer fabric for the jacket is a cotton/linen blend [FIGO Fabrics]
• the lining is a cotton voile [Art Gallery Fabrics]
• middle layer of the jacket was a light colored cotton quilting fabric
• the decorative quilting thread is a variegated 40 wt cotton thread [YLI]

Garment construction

The Valencia pants are a one-seam pants with a partial elastic wasteband. My hack for this pattern is the addition of two patch pockets. Since the pieces were already cut out and marked, this was a relatively quick finish.

The Valencia one-seam pants.

The jacket required more time. After laying out and cutting all the jacket pieces, quilting guidelines were marked with a Chaco Liner. I “quilt” the individual jacket pieces—fronts, back, sleeves—with the fashion fabric, a cotton or muslin middle layer, and the lining.

Marking stitching guidelines with a white Chaco liner.

The quilting stitch pattern is a combination of a straight stitch and a built-in decorative stitch on my machine. It looks a bit like barbed wire, but it complemented the graphic, wood cut design on the fabric.

Decorative stitch pattern for quilting the jacket pieces.

One of the finishing tasks for the jacket is deciding on the buttons. This is always an extensive auditioning process. (I admit I have a “healthy” button collection.)

Choosing buttons. Always, so many options!

Matching the fabric motifs

The print of this fabric made for a challenging layout process—making sure the motifs lined up. It was not the best choice of fabrics for the time constraints and deadline, but I was curious about sewing with a linen fabric and in the end, it turned out fine. I learned a lot about pattern layout and lining up motifs from making my kalamkari jacket, using the same jacket pattern.

My new cotton/linen jacket. A Make Nine 2023 finish.

Make Nine 2023 is complete!

This concludes my Make Nine Challenge for this year. My new jacket and pants are fulfilling the “UFO” prompt. It’s been a productive year.

Fulfilling the “UFO” prompt for Make Nine 2023.

Completed Make Nine 2023 tracker.

Needlework buttons: historical techniques using contemporary materials

The internet diminishes the distance between needleworkers for sharing ideas and techniques. From my kitchen table, I joined a group of UK stitchers and embroiderers this weekend for a Zoom workshop on making needlework covered buttons.

Needlework covered buttons from a recent workshop with Gina Barrett.

The two-hour workshop, called “Curiously Wrought: Making Needlework Buttons with Gina Barrett,” was sponsored by the Embroiderers’ Guild in the UK. Gina Barrett, the workshop’s instructor, is an author, illustrator, entrepreneur, and maker. She brings her passion for period costumes and historical passementerie to her workshops and her extensive experience in the craft is evident in her ease and skill of presenting and teaching these historical button-making techniques.  

Stitching commonalities 

Although there is a distinction between “embroidered” buttons and “needlework” buttons, Gina explained, if you are an embroiderer or hand stitcher, you’ll find many that of the stitches used in making needlework buttons seem familiar. Several workshop participants sited using the stitches in other textile disciplines—although were called by a slightly different name. In this workshop, we used the basic the rounded back stitch, blanket stitch, and a spiderweb stitch for our class buttons.

Supplies for making needlework covered buttons.

Button-making supplies are probably already in your stash

The supplies needed for this technique are minimal and comprised of items that most needleworkers and stitchers have on hand—perle cotton thread, small fabric scraps, buttons, needles and scissors. Workshop participants learned three button designs. Compared with historical buttons that were made in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, today’s needleworkers have myriad threads, fibers, colors, and thread weights available in the market to provide endless possibilities for creativity and developing unique designs. Gina was very encouraging and supportive of experimenting with any of them. 

Finding your rhythm

As one would expect with any new skill, continued practice will provide more consistent results. Gina indicated that once you find a good stitching rhythm, balanced thread tension usually follows—providing more desired results. 

This workshop was a wonderful experience and the buttons were fun to make! My first attempts need more finessing (obviously—by the photos), but now that I have a general understanding of the basics for making needlework covered buttons, I’ll be applying more effort and practice into achieving finer results.

I’m adding needlework buttons—another small, portable project—to my travel bag repertoire.