Repurposing is finding a better plan! Make Nine finish #4

Another UFO [unfinished object] has found a new purpose! And I’m using it to fulfill my UFO prompt for Make Nine 2026.

A repurposed UFO turned into a functional storage roll for double pointed knitting needles.

While straightening up my studio, I uncovered a partially finished placemat from a few years ago. It was going to be a store sample (showcasing a collection from Art Gallery Fabrics) but I never really loved the patchwork—the pieces felt a bit too small and fussy—and it wasn’t an enjoyable project to make… for a placemat, anyway. Because of my mitten knitting charity project, however, this UFO turned out to be perfect for something else. 

The unfinished placemat and additional fabric pieces
gathered to create a new holder for knitting needles.

Knitting mittens in the round has resulted in frequent use of double pointed knitting needles [dpns]. 

I often use double point needles [dps] for knitting mittens in the round.

The old leather pouch that kept them had reached the end of its life, cracking and shedding flakes every time I picked it up. I needed a better storage solution. 

New needle holder (left) and previous worn-out needle holder (right).

Repurposing a placemat UFO

Why not repurpose the unfinished placemat into a knitting needle holder??? One UFO would be brought to the finish line and I’d have new storage for my knitting needles. Win-win! 

Auditioning thread for the pocket stitching. 
Straight pins mark the position for the stitching.

The unfinished placemat was already quilted—which would make the project so much quicker to complete! I combined it with other fabric bits that I found while organizing: an orphan quilt block with colorful Australian aboriginal fabrics [M&S Textiles USA], and a fabric sample from a past surface design workshop. Fabrics for the binding and the pocket’s lining were added to the mix.

Creating the pocket for the needle holder.

The placemat was trimmed, the pocket attached, and machine stitching created sections in the pocket for sets of dpns. The binding was attached on three sides. Because of the patchwork on the former placemat, it was easy to follow seam lines to create the pocket sections. I think this remake was meant to be!

This UFO was an easy repurposed project and now I have a reminder of two favorite fabric lines, and a workshop sample has found its way into a project. All good memories. 

A binding was attached on three sides.

Repurposing UFOs: finding a better plan

This needle roll is actually the second UFO I've repurposed this year. Earlier, I took a patchwork piece that was originally intended for a tote bag, cut it, and added additional patchwork to make into a cat quilt for the animal center. In both cases, letting go of the original plan helped each project become something meaningful and useful… as well as finished!

A new needle roll for my double point needles and two hand-knit pairs of mittens.

The placemat will never become what it was originally intended to be, but as a needle roll it will get far more use. Repurposing these unfinished projects has been a good reminder that finishing doesn't always mean following the original pattern or plan—it can mean finding an even better one. 

Make Nine 2026, 4th finish

This project is my fourth Make Nine finish—fulfilling the UFO prompt.

Make Nine 2026 “UFO” prompt.

Here is my Make Nine tracker as of the end of May.

Make Nine 2026 tracker, May 2026.

 

What cotton thread is best for mending a quilt binding? 3-ply vs 2-ply

Quilt binding lives a hard life. 

What thread weight is best for mending a quilt binding?

This quilt, Strike Zone, is a case in point. Strike Zone was finished in 2010 and is frequently used—on the couch, in the recliner, around the shoulders. It’s a large lap-size, raw-edge appliqué, flannel quilt with a cotton backing and binding, and a cotton batting. It has a nice drape, is soft, snuggly, and well-loved.

Stitches are broken and the binding has pulled away from the body of the quilt.

As with Strike Zone, the binding edge of a quilt is the part that gets tucked under, tugged, folded, wrapped around cold feet (yes, with slippers still on), and gripped during every use. Unlike interior quilt seams, the binding endures more tension and wear. So, when I was notified that Strike Zone’s binding needed a little TLC, the thread choice was especially important for mending the areas that were breaking away from the body of the quilt. 

Understanding thread weight and ply 

In my recent Intro to Free-motion Quilting class, my students and I talk about thread weight and ply. Understanding what these terms mean is valuable when choosing threads for certain quilt-making tasks. For the task of mending a quilt binding, I’m focusing on 50 wt thread. 

• Weight has to do with thread thickness. It’s calculated by determining the number of kilometers of [one ply of] a thread that is needed to equal 1 kilogram of weight. 50 kilometers, in this case of a 50 wt thread. 

In the thread weight numberingsystem, a higher number means a finer thread. In the range from 12 wt (quite thick/heavy) to 100 wt (very, very fine), 50 wt sits somewhere in the middle of the pack and is commonly used for piecing and quilting. 

Comparison of a 50 wt 2-ply cotton thread, a 50 wt 3-ply, and 40 wt 3-ply.

• Ply refers to how many strands are twisted together to create the finished thread.

Illustration of “ply.” From Harmony Yarns.

In other words: 

• 50 wt 2-ply = two fine strands twisted together 
• 50 wt 3-ply = three fine strands twisted together

Even though both are labeled “50 wt,” the 3-ply version is typically rounder, stronger, slightly thicker, and more substantial.

A 3-ply 50 wt cotton thread from WonderFil Threads. 

Lesson learned

When deciding between 50 wt 3-ply cotton thread and 50 wt 2-ply cotton thread for quilt binding, the answer was much clearer during the mend than it was at the time the binding was initially attached. The answer for mending a binding was a resounding 50 wt 3-ply! I wish I would have chosen a 3-ply thread initially over the 2-ply that was used. (It was probably a color-match reason originally for using the 2-ply.) But I’ve now learned this lesson. 

Strike Zone’s label also needed mending.

Why 3-ply is a winner for quilt bindings 

A 3-ply cotton thread has a rounder, denser, and stronger structure that tolerates use and wear much better. Its structure is less likely to pop or snap under tension. Over time, 3-ply generally survives use and care of the quilt’s binding longer. A weak or overly delicate thread can fail long before the repaired binding fabric wears out again. 

For longer-lasting bindings, and fewer repairs, stronger thread is usually the smarter choice. Especially for: 

• everyday quilts 
• children’s quilts 
• bed quilts 
• frequently washed quilts 
• donation or charity quilts 
• utility quilts 

The 3-ply thread will definitely outlast the 2-ply on this quilt.

When to consider a 2-ply thread?

Even though 3-ply is preferable for the quilts I make these days, there are situations where 2-ply might be advantageous for certain projects. 

Three cotton threads (from left): 50 wt 2-ply, 50 wt 3-ply, 40 wt 3-ply.

Vintage or Antique Quilts. Older quilts can have worn or fragile cotton fabrics that no longer tolerate firm stitching. A softer 2-ply cotton thread can be more gentle, flexible, and reduce the risk of damaging or tearing weakened vintage fabrics. 

For antique quilts and delicate vintage textiles, preserving the textile is often more important than maximum strength and durability. 

Invisible Hand Stitching. If you’re repairing a quilt with tiny hand stitches—such as a vintage or heirloom quilt—and want the stitches nearly invisible, 2-ply can blend more easily into the cotton fabrics. A 2-ply cotton thread creates flatter stitches and has less surface visibility. It’s a bit more subtle and can provide a softer hand—but to the detriment of thread strength. 

Not for garment sewing! On a side note, I will not use a 50 wt, 2-ply cotton thread when sewing garments. Another lesson learned from a real life experience. Use a thread with a poly content—either a cotton covered poly core or an all-poly thread. (It will prevent the back seam of your pants from splitting!)

Final Thoughts 

For most cotton quilt bindings and repairs, a 50 wt 3-ply cotton thread is the safer, long-term choice because quilt edges endure constant stress and abrasion.

Strike Zone, a flannel, ragged edge appliqué quilt.

The best binding repairs don’t just hold the quilt together—they preserve the character, flexibility, and life of the quilt itself.

Mittens fulfill my Make Nine “yarn” prompt this year

This year’s Make Nine “yarn” prompt has turned into something much bigger than I expected. What began as an idea to use up leftover yarn has become an ongoing mitten-knitting project slated for a winter charity donation. My initial goal was to knit 12 pair—one pair a month. As of this blog post, however, I’ve completed 16 pairs! To say this has been addictive is an understatement. 

A variety of knitted mittens using stash yarns.

Pattern construction approaches for knitting mittens

One of the unexpected parts of this project has been discovering the variety of construction approaches to knitting mittens: 

• knit flat, 
• knit in-the-round, 
• knit just the thumb flat, 
• the afterthought thumb, 
• thumb gussets, 
• elf thumbs, 
• no-gap thumbs, 
• various ribbing patterns for the cuff, 
• stripes in the round, and 
• infinite formulas for decreasing at the top.

These are a few of the outcomes.

“Basic Four-needle Mittens,” knit in the round.

“Knit Flat Kid Mittens” pattern.

“Margot Mittens” with an after-thought thumb.

“Elf Fit Mittens” pattern.

The “StopGap Mittens” pattern with added color changes.

I’ve explored many mitten patterns found on Ravelry and even though the finished mittens look similar, the pattern instructions have been varied and quite interesting to follow. Each pattern is indeed like a map for a treasure hunt. 

By working the various construction techniques, I’ve gotten more proficient at: 

• joining in the round 
• knitting in the round with two circular needles (vs knitting with a set of double points) 
• picking up stitches (for thumbs and thumb gussets) 
• left and right leaning decreases
• learning tips for changing yarn colors. 

Every pair has exposed me to something new! 

Working with leftovers from the stash 

The mittens are mostly children’s and young adult sizes which make them suitable to working with leftovers and small yardage amounts. 

“Margot Mittens” (left) with colorwork, “Toddler Baby Mittens” (right).

Using a mix of stash yarns, orphan balls from the sale bin, and leftovers from a yarn swap also makes every pair unique and different. Some mittens are bright and playful, while others are simple and practical. The latest pair I just finished used a self-patterning yarn that created its own design as I knitted—making the process especially fun to watch unfold. 

Design, color placement, and “yarn chicken”

Determining pleasing color placement—based on available quantities of leftover yarns—has been challenging. Working from leftovers means I’ve also played plenty of “yarn chicken.” More than once I’ve watched a yarn skein dwindle and wonder if I’ll have enough to make it to the second mitten’s bind-off. 

The “No Gap” mitten pattern with colorwork.

A few pairs have come down to unrolling the remaining yarn to find the half-way mark and then rewinding into two separate yarn butterflies. So far, I’ve managed to avoid running out completely, but there have definitely been moments of “running on fumes…” hoping I didn’t run short. 

Running down to the last few yards of a self-patterning yarn.
“Basic Four-Needle Mittens”

It’s satisfying turning bits of yarn from the bottom of a basket into something useful. Small skeins that are too little for a whole project become colorful cuffs, stripes, or contrasting thumbs. 

“Mittens for All” (left) and “Crayon Striped Mittens” (right).

Mittens offer wonderful and imaginative opportunities that are adaptable to small amounts of yarn! I’ve even taken pairs of fingerless mitts, unraveled the bind-off edge and added closed mitten tops and thumbs.

Unraveling the bind-off edge of fingerless mitts to convert them into full mittens.

Converting fingerless mitts into full mittens.

A Make Nine 2026 “yarn” prompt

My Make Nine “Yarn” prompt has become part stash-busting, part technique practice, part design, and part opportunity to contribute to the community. 

Make Nine 2026 tracker, May 22, 2026.

One versus many

Charity knitting also changes the rhythm of making. Instead of focusing on a single large project, I can quickly finish a pair of mittens and then imagine someone wearing them on a cold morning. That sense of purpose keeps me reaching for my needles more frequently. 

Make Nine 2026 “yarn” prompt.

I still have more yarn to use and more mitten variations to try, so this project is far from finished. For now, though, sixteen pair feels like a great accomplishment for the mid-point of the year… and I’m counting this project as fulfilling my Make Nine “yarn” prompt.

 

From the scrap basket to the beds at the animal center

When my husband forwarded me an e-newsletter from McKamey Animal Center with an urgent request for blankets, towels, and pillowcases, I knew my fabric scrap collection could become something useful.

Scrappy quilts for the animals: 23.5” x 35” (left), and 25.25” x 35” (right).

After reading the email, I contacted the Center and the associate said they were looking for items that could be used for bedding for crates and cages for the animals they house—both dogs and cats. She told me that their crates are all different sizes and dimensions, so any and all sizes of bedding is needed. 

Smaller scrap quilts: 25” x 28.25” (left) and 24.5” x 26.5” (right).

Gathering leftover patchwork pieces and myriad colorful fabric bits, I turned the fabrics into four scrappy lap-size quilts to donate to McKamey. 

Four new quilts for the cats and dogs at the animal center.

From tote bag to an animal bed quilt

One quilt was made from patchwork that originally was going to be a tote bag. I think this new use—bedding for a dog or cat crate—will be much more beneficial!

Patchwork for a tote bag.

The tote bag was cut into two pieces and other fabrics were added to convert it into a larger quilt top.

Patchwork for a tote bag cut in half and reassembled into a quilt top.

Quilted and finished by machine

The quilts were free-motion quilted and finished with scrappy machine-sewn bindings, making them sturdy, washable, and ready for lots of use. 

Scrappy quilt bindings attached by machine.

Quilt Stats

Quilting 

• 3.5 total hours of free-motion quilting
• 50 wt solid and variegated cotton threads (top threads) for quilting 

Binding 

• 4.5 hours making and attaching bindings for the four quilts
• various 40 wt and 50 wt threads for the zigzag stitching on the bindings

Interesting… it takes me longer to bind the quilts than to quilt them.

Continuous line Stream of Consciousness quilting

After doing FMQ [free-motion quilting] exercises with students in my recent Intro to Free-motion Quilting class, I’ve used a spontaneous, continuous line, reactive quilting design concept to quilt one of the quilts, which made quilting surprisingly quick! 30 minutes vs. 60 minutes.

With the busy fabric prints on these quilts, the design is difficult to distinguish…

Continuous line free-motion quilting.

Continuous line free-motion quilting.

… so below is a warm-up sandwich of the concept: a continuous line, filling the space, reacting to the previous stitching. Maybe it should be called, “Stream of Consciousness quilting.” The kitty and doggie quilts are perfect for practicing this kind of quilting pattern.

Practice sandwich of “stream of consciousness quilting.”

I love the thought that these bright, cozy quilts will bring a little comfort and warmth (and color!) to animals at the McKamey Animal Center while they wait for their forever homes. Sometimes the best projects come from using what we already have—turning scraps into something practical, cheerful, and snuggly.